“Feito à mão e com amor”: alinhavos etnográficos acerca de saberes e fazeres de costureiras na cidade de Santa Maria/RS
Ano de defesa: | 2018 |
---|---|
Autor(a) principal: | |
Orientador(a): | |
Banca de defesa: | , |
Tipo de documento: | Dissertação |
Tipo de acesso: | Acesso aberto |
Idioma: | por |
Instituição de defesa: |
Universidade Federal de Santa Maria
Centro de Ciências Sociais e Humanas |
Programa de Pós-Graduação: |
Programa de Pós-Graduação em Ciências Sociais
|
Departamento: |
Sociologia
|
País: |
Brasil
|
Palavras-chave em Português: | |
Palavras-chave em Inglês: | |
Área do conhecimento CNPq: | |
Link de acesso: | http://repositorio.ufsm.br/handle/1/16799 |
Resumo: | The present study discourse about the universe of women's knowledge and practices, of threads and needles, cloths and sewing machines that were empirically and, somehow, continue to be passed on from generation to generation. Among the knowledges and doings that surround the feminine world, it is in the know-how of sewing that resides the focus of this dissertation that has as protagonists the home workers. To that end, my research locus is concentrated mostly in the city of Santa Maria/ RS, although I have also interacted with two interlocutors who live in other cities and who played a relevant role in the development of the research. From the memories of nine women seamstresses about their trajectories in the work world, I’ve try to understand how the practice of sewing endures while knowing how to do in their daily lives, taking into account the technological, demographic changes and the world of work itself. Through work narratives, interviews, participant observation, sketches, excerpts from literary works and memories allied to photographs, I try to "sew", in this dissertation, the ethnographic method of duration and street ethnography. Thus, fieldwork was carried out in the street environment, in the dressing rooms and in the domestic environment, that is, in the sewing rooms. By situating the seam as an ever-changing element of life, I sought to show that sewing persists over time even in the face of changes in the way we dress and produce clothing in our society. I have observed that sewing remains as a predominantly feminine work and continues to be performed in the home considering the possibility of reconciling it with the work of caring for people and the home environment. The sewing is also preserved as a know-how transmitted between women of different generations. In addition, the context of Santa Maria that presents itself as a university and military city, favors the permanence of sewing practices in view of the demand for services by this public, such as the making of party dresses and military uniforms. These circumstances reveal how sewing reverberates in practices, in the city, in the bodies, and in the lives of seamstress women. |
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2019-06-07T21:59:09Z2019-06-07T21:59:09Z2018-05-30http://repositorio.ufsm.br/handle/1/16799The present study discourse about the universe of women's knowledge and practices, of threads and needles, cloths and sewing machines that were empirically and, somehow, continue to be passed on from generation to generation. Among the knowledges and doings that surround the feminine world, it is in the know-how of sewing that resides the focus of this dissertation that has as protagonists the home workers. To that end, my research locus is concentrated mostly in the city of Santa Maria/ RS, although I have also interacted with two interlocutors who live in other cities and who played a relevant role in the development of the research. From the memories of nine women seamstresses about their trajectories in the work world, I’ve try to understand how the practice of sewing endures while knowing how to do in their daily lives, taking into account the technological, demographic changes and the world of work itself. Through work narratives, interviews, participant observation, sketches, excerpts from literary works and memories allied to photographs, I try to "sew", in this dissertation, the ethnographic method of duration and street ethnography. Thus, fieldwork was carried out in the street environment, in the dressing rooms and in the domestic environment, that is, in the sewing rooms. By situating the seam as an ever-changing element of life, I sought to show that sewing persists over time even in the face of changes in the way we dress and produce clothing in our society. I have observed that sewing remains as a predominantly feminine work and continues to be performed in the home considering the possibility of reconciling it with the work of caring for people and the home environment. The sewing is also preserved as a know-how transmitted between women of different generations. In addition, the context of Santa Maria that presents itself as a university and military city, favors the permanence of sewing practices in view of the demand for services by this public, such as the making of party dresses and military uniforms. These circumstances reveal how sewing reverberates in practices, in the city, in the bodies, and in the lives of seamstress women.O presente estudo versa sobre o universo dos saberes e fazeres femininos, das linhas e agulhas, dos panos e das máquinas de costura que empiricamente eram e, de algum modo, continuam sendo passados de geração em geração de mulheres. Dentre os saberes e fazeres que circundam o mundo feminino, é no saber fazer da costura que reside o foco desta dissertação que possui como protagonistas as trabalhadoras a domicílio. Para tanto, meu lócus de pesquisa se concentra em maior parte na cidade de Santa Maria/RS, apesar de também ter trabalhado com duas interlocutoras que residem em outras cidades e que desempenharam um papel relevante para o desenvolvimento da pesquisa. A partir das memórias de nove mulheres costureiras acerca de suas trajetórias no mundo do trabalho, busco compreender como a prática da costura perdura enquanto saber fazer em seus cotidianos, tendo em vista as mudanças tecnológicas, demográficas e do próprio mundo do trabalho contemporaneamente. Diante de narrativas do trabalho, entrevistas, observação participante, croquis, trechos de obras literárias e memórias aliadas também às fotografias, intento “costurar”, nesta dissertação, o método etnográfico de duração e a etnografia de rua. Assim, o trabalho de campo foi realizado no ambiente da rua, dos armarinhos e no âmbito doméstico, ou seja, nas salas de costura. Ao situar a costura como um elemento de duração sempre em transformação, busquei evidenciar que a costura persiste ao longo do tempo mesmo frente às mudanças no modo de vestir e produzir roupas na nossa sociedade. Observei que a costura perdura como um trabalho predominantemente feminino e continua sendo realizado no lar considerando a possibilidade de conciliá-lo com o trabalho de cuidado de pessoas e do próprio ambiente doméstico. A costura também se preserva como um saber fazer transmitido entre mulheres de diferentes gerações. Além disso, o contexto de Santa Maria que se apresenta como uma cidade universitária e militar, favorece a permanência das práticas de costura tendo em vista a demanda de serviços por esse público como, por exemplo, a confecção de vestidos de festa e fardas militares. Essas circunstâncias revelam como a costura reverbera nas práticas, na cidade, nos corpos e na vida das mulheres costureiras.Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior - CAPESporUniversidade Federal de Santa MariaCentro de Ciências Sociais e HumanasPrograma de Pós-Graduação em Ciências SociaisUFSMBrasilSociologiaCosturaCostureirasSaberes e fazeresTrabalhoDuraçãoSewingSeamstressesKnow-howWorkDurationCoutureCouturièresSavoirs et pratiquesTravailDuréeCNPQ::CIENCIAS HUMANAS::SOCIOLOGIA“Feito à mão e com amor”: alinhavos etnográficos acerca de saberes e fazeres de costureiras na cidade de Santa Maria/RS"Hand made with love": sewing the ethnographic knowledge and work of sewings in the city of Santa Maria/RSFait à la main et avec amour:faufilsethnographiques sur le savoir et pratiques de couturières de la ville de Santa Maria /RSinfo:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersioninfo:eu-repo/semantics/masterThesisBrites, Jurema Gorskihttp://lattes.cnpq.br/8793702457056201Siqueira, Monalisa Dias dehttp://lattes.cnpq.br/0994530332510835Leitão, Debora Krischkehttp://lattes.cnpq.br/1094970087162112Eckert, Corneliahttp://lattes.cnpq.br/7446126566413577http://lattes.cnpq.br/9185580354760995Käercher, Karen Ambrozi70020000000960082dccacc-ea0f-4d79-bf8b-1359db305c66dd08792d-6a44-413e-a0ac-0923a1b19170647bdbbf-892b-41d5-9dae-ab4a4047819b0d4311a3-4886-4b6a-9930-f9798b0b18fe0a555143-84b9-477d-9b47-25deb636fad6reponame:Biblioteca Digital de Teses e Dissertações do UFSMinstname:Universidade Federal de Santa Maria (UFSM)instacron:UFSMinfo:eu-repo/semantics/openAccessORIGINALDIS_PPGCS_2018_KAERCHER_KAREN.pdfDIS_PPGCS_2018_KAERCHER_KAREN.pdfDissertação de Mestradoapplication/pdf5288906http://repositorio.ufsm.br/bitstream/1/16799/1/DIS_PPGCS_2018_KAERCHER_KAREN.pdf619e595b7dbdecefc81c0ffc939f212aMD51LICENSElicense.txtlicense.txttext/plain; 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dc.title.por.fl_str_mv |
“Feito à mão e com amor”: alinhavos etnográficos acerca de saberes e fazeres de costureiras na cidade de Santa Maria/RS |
dc.title.alternative.eng.fl_str_mv |
"Hand made with love": sewing the ethnographic knowledge and work of sewings in the city of Santa Maria/RS |
dc.title.alternative.fra.fl_str_mv |
Fait à la main et avec amour:faufilsethnographiques sur le savoir et pratiques de couturières de la ville de Santa Maria /RS |
title |
“Feito à mão e com amor”: alinhavos etnográficos acerca de saberes e fazeres de costureiras na cidade de Santa Maria/RS |
spellingShingle |
“Feito à mão e com amor”: alinhavos etnográficos acerca de saberes e fazeres de costureiras na cidade de Santa Maria/RS Käercher, Karen Ambrozi Costura Costureiras Saberes e fazeres Trabalho Duração Sewing Seamstresses Know-how Work Duration Couture Couturières Savoirs et pratiques Travail Durée CNPQ::CIENCIAS HUMANAS::SOCIOLOGIA |
title_short |
“Feito à mão e com amor”: alinhavos etnográficos acerca de saberes e fazeres de costureiras na cidade de Santa Maria/RS |
title_full |
“Feito à mão e com amor”: alinhavos etnográficos acerca de saberes e fazeres de costureiras na cidade de Santa Maria/RS |
title_fullStr |
“Feito à mão e com amor”: alinhavos etnográficos acerca de saberes e fazeres de costureiras na cidade de Santa Maria/RS |
title_full_unstemmed |
“Feito à mão e com amor”: alinhavos etnográficos acerca de saberes e fazeres de costureiras na cidade de Santa Maria/RS |
title_sort |
“Feito à mão e com amor”: alinhavos etnográficos acerca de saberes e fazeres de costureiras na cidade de Santa Maria/RS |
author |
Käercher, Karen Ambrozi |
author_facet |
Käercher, Karen Ambrozi |
author_role |
author |
dc.contributor.advisor1.fl_str_mv |
Brites, Jurema Gorski |
dc.contributor.advisor1Lattes.fl_str_mv |
http://lattes.cnpq.br/8793702457056201 |
dc.contributor.advisor-co1.fl_str_mv |
Siqueira, Monalisa Dias de |
dc.contributor.advisor-co1Lattes.fl_str_mv |
http://lattes.cnpq.br/0994530332510835 |
dc.contributor.referee1.fl_str_mv |
Leitão, Debora Krischke |
dc.contributor.referee1Lattes.fl_str_mv |
http://lattes.cnpq.br/1094970087162112 |
dc.contributor.referee2.fl_str_mv |
Eckert, Cornelia |
dc.contributor.referee2Lattes.fl_str_mv |
http://lattes.cnpq.br/7446126566413577 |
dc.contributor.authorLattes.fl_str_mv |
http://lattes.cnpq.br/9185580354760995 |
dc.contributor.author.fl_str_mv |
Käercher, Karen Ambrozi |
contributor_str_mv |
Brites, Jurema Gorski Siqueira, Monalisa Dias de Leitão, Debora Krischke Eckert, Cornelia |
dc.subject.por.fl_str_mv |
Costura Costureiras Saberes e fazeres Trabalho Duração |
topic |
Costura Costureiras Saberes e fazeres Trabalho Duração Sewing Seamstresses Know-how Work Duration Couture Couturières Savoirs et pratiques Travail Durée CNPQ::CIENCIAS HUMANAS::SOCIOLOGIA |
dc.subject.eng.fl_str_mv |
Sewing Seamstresses Know-how Work Duration |
dc.subject.fra.fl_str_mv |
Couture Couturières Savoirs et pratiques Travail Durée |
dc.subject.cnpq.fl_str_mv |
CNPQ::CIENCIAS HUMANAS::SOCIOLOGIA |
description |
The present study discourse about the universe of women's knowledge and practices, of threads and needles, cloths and sewing machines that were empirically and, somehow, continue to be passed on from generation to generation. Among the knowledges and doings that surround the feminine world, it is in the know-how of sewing that resides the focus of this dissertation that has as protagonists the home workers. To that end, my research locus is concentrated mostly in the city of Santa Maria/ RS, although I have also interacted with two interlocutors who live in other cities and who played a relevant role in the development of the research. From the memories of nine women seamstresses about their trajectories in the work world, I’ve try to understand how the practice of sewing endures while knowing how to do in their daily lives, taking into account the technological, demographic changes and the world of work itself. Through work narratives, interviews, participant observation, sketches, excerpts from literary works and memories allied to photographs, I try to "sew", in this dissertation, the ethnographic method of duration and street ethnography. Thus, fieldwork was carried out in the street environment, in the dressing rooms and in the domestic environment, that is, in the sewing rooms. By situating the seam as an ever-changing element of life, I sought to show that sewing persists over time even in the face of changes in the way we dress and produce clothing in our society. I have observed that sewing remains as a predominantly feminine work and continues to be performed in the home considering the possibility of reconciling it with the work of caring for people and the home environment. The sewing is also preserved as a know-how transmitted between women of different generations. In addition, the context of Santa Maria that presents itself as a university and military city, favors the permanence of sewing practices in view of the demand for services by this public, such as the making of party dresses and military uniforms. These circumstances reveal how sewing reverberates in practices, in the city, in the bodies, and in the lives of seamstress women. |
publishDate |
2018 |
dc.date.issued.fl_str_mv |
2018-05-30 |
dc.date.accessioned.fl_str_mv |
2019-06-07T21:59:09Z |
dc.date.available.fl_str_mv |
2019-06-07T21:59:09Z |
dc.type.status.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion |
dc.type.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/masterThesis |
format |
masterThesis |
status_str |
publishedVersion |
dc.identifier.uri.fl_str_mv |
http://repositorio.ufsm.br/handle/1/16799 |
url |
http://repositorio.ufsm.br/handle/1/16799 |
dc.language.iso.fl_str_mv |
por |
language |
por |
dc.relation.cnpq.fl_str_mv |
700200000009 |
dc.relation.confidence.fl_str_mv |
600 |
dc.relation.authority.fl_str_mv |
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dc.rights.driver.fl_str_mv |
info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
eu_rights_str_mv |
openAccess |
dc.publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Universidade Federal de Santa Maria Centro de Ciências Sociais e Humanas |
dc.publisher.program.fl_str_mv |
Programa de Pós-Graduação em Ciências Sociais |
dc.publisher.initials.fl_str_mv |
UFSM |
dc.publisher.country.fl_str_mv |
Brasil |
dc.publisher.department.fl_str_mv |
Sociologia |
publisher.none.fl_str_mv |
Universidade Federal de Santa Maria Centro de Ciências Sociais e Humanas |
dc.source.none.fl_str_mv |
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Universidade Federal de Santa Maria (UFSM) |
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UFSM |
institution |
UFSM |
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