Moda e modos de consumo no Brasil do século XX: revistas e a construção de aparências

• Ano de defesa: 2015
• Autor(a) principal: Clemente, Mariana Braga
• Orientador(a): Oliveira, Ana Claudia Mei Alves de
• Tipo de documento: Dissertação
• Tipo de acesso: Acesso aberto
• Idioma: por
• Instituição de defesa: Pontifícia Universidade Católica de São Paulo
• Programa de Pós-Graduação: Programa de Estudos Pós-Graduados em Comunicação e Semiótica
• Departamento: Comunicação
• País: BR
• Palavras-chave em Português: Moda; Mídia impressa; Consumo; Identidade; Semiótica das práticas sociais; Semiótica discursiva
• Palavras-chave em Inglês: Fashion; Press media; Consumption; Identity; Semiotics of social practices; Discursive semiotics
• Área do conhecimento CNPq: CNPQ::CIENCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADAS::COMUNICACAO
• Link de acesso: https://tede2.pucsp.br/handle/handle/4758

This research investigates how the magazines act in building fashion as the features of appearance in the several and recurrent modes of consumption, and how the announced media visibility has become a part of the individuals identity in Brazil. The main goal is to investigate fashion while an aesthetic making that goes beyond clothing and, hypothetically, would build these ways of life by the appearance. Understanding that the construction of identities implies the construction of alterities, this research also examine how those alterities come out at media discourses, and how are they articulated to build and delineate through fashion the individuals identities. It seizes the fashion in its widest sense, while a fashion from the social and tests the hypothesis that fashion would be a social builder. The corpus consists of an extensive amount of ads, raised in 36 editions of three Brazilian illustrated magazines of the 20th century: Fon-Fon, O Cruzeiro and Manchete, because in them it can be found not only stricto sensu fashion, but also the fashion that goes beyond clothing, and delineate lifestyles. These analyses reach the object of study from 1910 to 1990, composing a representative period of time, when society has been through drastic socio-cultural-historical (trans)formations. For these purposes, we resorted the discursive semiotics of A. J. Greimas and the continuity given by Eric Landowski with socialsemiotics. For understanding fashion as an object of semiotics, are approached some Ana Claudia de Oliveira and Kathia Castilho studies. For a deeper study in the object synchronicity and in the incorporation processes of fashion and its manners, are used the mechanisms of intertextuality and interdiscursive by Norma Discini and José Luiz Fiorin. For the plasticity analysis of media, the studies of Jean-Marie Floch and Ana Claudia de Oliveira. By mapping those ads, five categories of consumption were find and determined as modes of consumption; regarded as individuals modes of presence, were stablished in each category those who show dressed bodies. We concluded that is with and by the ruptures of the ways of dressing up that the fashion or the modes of appearance also disrupt in the various modes of consuming, developing cycles of new practices and (re)constructions of meaning. In this context, the magazines had important roles while forming those consumers of fashion and manners. Thus, the individual develops its taste for appearance, building itself by fashion and its consumption cycles, while a social being for itself and for another individuals