Comunicação e valores do masculino: a construção da identidade na relação entre corpo e moda

• Ano de defesa: 2007
• Autor(a) principal: Costa, Larissa Ortiz Tavares
• Orientador(a): Oliveira, Ana Claudia Mei Alves de
• Tipo de documento: Dissertação
• Tipo de acesso: Acesso aberto
• Idioma: por
• Instituição de defesa: Pontifícia Universidade Católica de São Paulo
• Programa de Pós-Graduação: Programa de Estudos Pós-Graduados em Comunicação e Semiótica
• Departamento: Comunicação
• País: BR
• Palavras-chave em Português: semiótica discursiva; masculinidade; identidade; corpo; moda; Identidade sexual; Moda > Aspectos sociais; Masculinidade; Roupas de homem
• Palavras-chave em Inglês: discursive semiotics; masculinity; identity; body; fashion
• Área do conhecimento CNPq: CNPQ::CIENCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADAS::COMUNICACAO
• Link de acesso: https://tede2.pucsp.br/handle/handle/4902

In the transition between the 20th to the 21st centuries the masculine values have passed by significant change that came upon their conditions of life reorganization.The fashion, as the media which allows us to comprehend and build the identity of these characters, has pushed us to investigate how clothing and specially the shirt plays a role in this transformation process. Describing the level of expression of the shirt by articulating eidétics, materics, chromatic and topological formants, we highlight the great development of materiality to understand how fabrics have been altered to become visible to the contemporary quest for menswear. The relationship between cloth and body equations a new behavior and new standards for the measurement of configuration, which alters the wear mould. In such process of altering, the contained, hidden body is evidenced and added value. The theoretical and methodological basis for the present research is the Discursive Semiotics suggested by Algirdas Julien Greimas and his collaborators. We also make use of studies of plastic semiotics, together with the social-semiotics proposed by Eric Landowski, that give us tools to build up identity and alterability by means of visibility regimes, which allows us to understand how the new man takes position and creates senses by the way he dresses himself. The corpus was surveyed in the market, in the main companies for menswear in Brazil, in a cut of the most sold shirt type in the period between June 2004 to April 2005, when the autumn-winter and spring-summer collections were presented. With such selection we explored the variant and non-variant constituents, resulting in a proposition of customer typology. We concluded that each type of user i.e. subjective versus objective, pragmatic versus symbolic; figures a simulacrum of the masculine that builds his appearance and identity by his being and acting in the framework of the social life