Passarela virtual: um desfile Saint Laurent em distanciamento social

• Ano de defesa: 2022
• Autor(a) principal: Rodrigues, Alexandre Guimarães
• Orientador(a): Senta, Clarissa Raquel Motter Dala
• Tipo de documento: Dissertação
• Tipo de acesso: Acesso aberto
• Idioma: por
• Instituição de defesa: Universidade Católica de Brasília
• Programa de Pós-Graduação: Programa Stricto Sensu em Inovação em Comunicação e Economia Criativa
• Departamento: Escola de Educação, Tecnologia e Comunicação
• País: Brasil
• Palavras-chave em Português: Desfile de moda; Moda e tecnologia; Semiologia da moda; Estéticas tecnológicas; Moda e arte
• Palavras-chave em Inglês: Fashion show; Fashion and technology; Fashion semiology; Technological aesthetics; Fashion and art
• Área do conhecimento CNPq: CNPQ::CIENCIAS SOCIAIS APLICADAS::COMUNICACAO
• Link de acesso: https://bdtd.ucb.br:8443/jspui/handle/tede/3076

Fashion shows were adapted to the virtual environment due to the safety conditions required against the new coronavirus (Covid-19) pandemic, such as social distancing. Fashion brands have adapted to present the new collections to the public, moving the catwalks to the internet, in a non-face-to-face format. This opened up a variety of possibilities for the production of audiovisual images that managed to maintain the quality and efficiency of fashion shows in different environments, little or not previously explored, through information and communication technologies (ICTs). Therefore, observing the displacement of the in-person fashion show to the virtual environment, this work analyzes the audiovisual images produced for the first remote show held by the Saint Laurent brand in 2020 for the women's summer/2021 collection. The brand kept the traditional catwalk format with models in a linear sequence in an external environment, outside Paris, but without an audience. Thus, this study seeks to understand how the narrative and aesthetic strategies of the virtual fashion show, enhanced by digital technologies, enable a sensorial and symbolic experience about the universe of brands and their relationships with sociocultural contexts. For this, and as a methodological contribution, it uses the semiological analysis proposed by Roland Barthes (2009), which emphasizes the Fashion System, to identify imagery and technological aesthetics associated with the Yves Saint Laurent brand, as well as its relations with artistic capitalism. by Lipovetsky (2015). The results indicate relationships between denotative and connotative elements identified in the audiovisual images of the parade, which produce meanings associated with the pandemic cultural context and the spirit of the brand. Through semiological analysis, it was revealed that the items sand/desert/dunes/Sun/fire refer to time/infinity/escapism/freedom/movement/melancholy, extending to the ideas of distance/isolation, ephemeral/present, everyday/routine , rebirth/change, rhythm/deceleration, return/origins, memories/marks. The elements shoulders/tunics/cyclist shorts connote movement/work/day-today/minimalism/comfort, which can be read as practical/solemn/standardised, because in moments of apprehension fashion is more discreet. The words silk/lingerie/evening dress refer to soft/desire/escapism/fluid/lightness that unfold into pleasure/intimacy/seduction/hedonism indicating optimism; the items color/music/descend give meaning to consolation/smooth/melancholy, consistent with the brand concept, which express warmth/memories/rhythm in the face of a global tribulation.